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I’ve just returned from Bali to the flattest spell since, well the last very very long flat spell… But no seriously, this one, I believe is especially lengthy with high pressures ruling the skies for the last god-knows-how-long. Not even a volcano was enough to shake things up. Given the current period of wave starvation, I am sure the last thing you want to hear is someone going on about the consistent and perfect surf, in 26 degree water on the other side of the world. I can’t say I blame you… but if that’s the case then stop reading now !

This was my first trip to Indo and I was excited by the prospect of the unknown and mainly left hand surf breaks! It’s a funny old place and completely different to anything I have experienced before, from the man pouring petrol from plastic bottles into a scooter whilst smoking a cigarette to the bare footed construction workers scurrying up and down the bamboo scaffold on building sites.

My first proper surf was at Nusa Dua, a resort on the other side of the peninsula. On arrival, I jumped into the boat not really having been able to gauge the true size of the waves breaking off the back of a lagoon stretching almost 1km out to sea. I had been planning to paddle down the point but having jumped out at the main peak this seemed a very long way off. Feeling a bit tentative, decided to sit a bit wide and check out what was what. After a while of coaxing myself to get into the spot to catch one, we had the first of a few larger sets to break wide. I just remember letting out what can only be described as a whimper as it broke in front of me causing a double overhead white water explosion. It almost felt pointless to even try attempting to duck dive it but it wasn’t as bad as I had expected despite a few moments of ‘crocodile wrestling’ with my board ! I finally stroked into my first wave, to date the biggest I have ever taken off on ! After that it got easier, and I was kicking myself for being so cautious initially. Mindful of the mammoth paddle in ahead of me I called it a day soon after. Its funny how things pan out, as this ended up being largest waves I surfed the whole trip.

For our first week we based ourselves at Balangan beach, but travelled the odd day to a different beach for a change of scenery. Balangan is situated at the northern end of the Bukit Peninsula. It’s one of the easier, more manageable waves in the area but can pack a real punch in large swells and at low tide. On large low tides you can walk further south to Dreamland, Bingin, and beyond.

All in all it was a good starting point and far from the general madness of Kuta which is tourist central in Bali. We did venture in one night to check out the Aussie package holiday spot. It really is just like the Australian version of Gran Canaria or somewhere comparable. Instead of the bars blaring out Premiership football and an all-day-breakfast menu you get AFL (or ‘footie’) and pies! After a week on the mainland we were ready for our island retreat….

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