I don’t ever remember such a prolonged spell of groundswell as the one we are experiencing at the moment. It’s been on and off for the last 2 almost 3 weeks and has reached far and wide with some of the highlights including some impressive waves been ridden on the West coast of Ireland.

With the usual weekday limitations in place we decided to head west for the weekend, with the intention to stay on the South Coast as opposed to going all the way to Cornwall. Saturday was pretty lame with a few odd 1 footers lapping the shore at low tide but Sunday was an entirely different story.

First light saw a number of early risers already in the sea by the time we got there, and I can’t say I blame them. Within a few minutes of looking at it, we couldn’t wait any longer and promptly suited up to go in.  Here’s why !

As the large tide dropped out the conditions improved with less water over the reef but the current this produced took a lot of paddling to ensure staying in the right spot. Over the course of the day I took A LOT of photos !  Here’s a few of the better ones.

I’m not sure I can ever remember surfing better waves on this coast ever before. Between size and shape, apart from the water temperature I’m not sure it gets any better ! We need more days like this on the south coast please !

Gosh it feels like an age since my last post, and that’s, well, cos it has been ! Firstly wishing you all a happy and healthy New Year.  The beginning of winter hasn’t really been too kind to us, on many levels but on the other hand most have been making up for the lack of water based activity with snow related fun due to some record snowfall levels recorded for early winter. Devils Dyke proved popular for snowboarding but that walk back up the hill never gets any easier. Still for some South of England snowboarding, thats the price you pay I guess, and beggars can’t be choosers !!

The last few months certainly provided some news stories in the wider surfing world. Can’t but help feeling the untimely and tragic death of Andy Irons, ironically the only man to ever truly challenge Slater somewhat over-shadowed King Kellys 10th World Title, a momentous achievement in any case… Meanwhile who’d have predicted a Euro would win the Billabong Pipe Masters at Backdoor ? Not forgetting either Steph Gilmore recently inking what I am presuming is a mega bucks contract with Quiksilver no less, and not Roxy as they’ve been hasty to add.

Christmas was celebrated by a hardened group of regular drinkers, I mean surfers, the evening kindly organised by David from A1Surf.com and James from Sharkbait.co.uk in association with Surfers Against Sewage. It was a great evening, and aside from raising money for the latter it also provided a chance to chat in surroundings slightly nicer than the car park at Carats ! So thanks for all your hard work guys !

The swell has, dare I say it recently started to come good and I believe there was a few decent foggy sessions to be had over Christmas. Me, well I couldn’t resist the lure of a cheapy package holiday in the sun, so off to Fuerteventura we went for a week over New Years. At this rate we agreed even just some sun would be great with any surf an added bonus, but hey this is the Canaries in winter so you assume you’ll get something….which we did. In fact more than enough…more than we had any boards long enough to deal with (well not me but the lad certainly…) We timed it just nicely with an incoming then slowly fading 2.9m 16 second period swell…that pretty much lasted the week with varying winds from the glassy to the odd afternoon seabreeze.

El Hierro Right

Fuerte itself had changed, as to be expected in the 8 years since we’d last been there. Plenty more apartments and amenities but the North track is still unpaved which was good to see ! Given that this was the holiday season it was also pretty busy in the water, but what surprised me the most was that surfers are hugely outnumbered by grown men on boogey boards which is a concept I will never grow accustomed to. So it made catching waves somewhat of a challenge with some gut slider always to be found sitting on your inside, and woe betide he or she who drops in on them !

So I didn’t take my main camera for fear of it spending a little more time in a hire car on its own than I would necessarily like, but took a few little pics here and there, mainly around the north track and Cotillo which picked up a lot of the swell.

The Bubble

Spew Pits, Cotillo

Cotillo

Hope you like !

 

The theme applied to this years French leg of the world tour was the ‘Best Of….’ and its safe to say, the famous beach breaks certainly delivered the goods. Phew. It could have been the ‘Best Of…’ 2ft onshore slop which really would have pee-ed off the PR people, but thankfully the surf gods complied with general idea. Unfortunately I didn’t get to witness the last few rounds action first hand, but the initial days and the free surfs that ensued as the swell dropped was enough to keep me interested !

Days 1&2 kicked off in pretty chunky and almost confused conditions at times at Culs Nuls beach, with solid shifting peaks not exactly aided by the wafting winds. It was however sufficient to run the initial rounds with most of the expected rippers progressing to the third round, bar Slater who unusually found himself in the make or break Round 2.

As with previous years we were conveniently located at La Bourdaines beach, house sharing with the legendry Simon Anderson. One of the banks here would serve as the back up break to the favoured Culs Nuls site resulting in a few epic free surf sessions. With all the big names jostling for position amongst the locals in the limited take-off area, it took no time at all for the shoreline to become dotted with photograpers and spectators all hunting that elusive shot including myself. They certainly didn’t disappoint and for me it truly was a lesson in new school surfing. On reflection, if anything it’s pretty demoralising as you realise you’re as far away from that air reverse 360 or a Rodeo flip as you’ve ever been. (A bottom turn is pretty much my lot !)

In the meantime we were lucky to score a few great sessions on a left hand rip bank away from the maddening crowds around Seignosse and Hossegor. We had some company in the form of Matt Wilkinson, Ace Buchan (I think) and Glenn Hall on one of the days. I really enjoyed watching these guys from the water and as ever tried to look and learn ! Whereas you might think it would be difficult to get a wave with this lot in the water, I was called into a few waves and not once did they try and paddle up the inside !! So all in all a great week of surf. I’ll be booking my spot again for next year 🙂

So, seeing as it was my birthday weekend, I had a very specific request. Waves and Sunshine ! That’s not asking for too much is it ?! 

Thursday began with numerous texts and MMS messages detailing perfect Cornwall line ups ! Not fair ! Not only that, my usual lift to the West was departing on Thursday night and I couldn’t afford a full day out of the office on Friday. Thankfully a half day was agreed, so on Friday afternoon I jumped on the little propeller plane at Gatwick only to land in Newquay an hour later ! I could definitely get used to this ! It was worth it alone for the beautiful views of the coastline from above. Coming into land we flew over Mawgan Porth beach which looked like it was going off !

Jumped straight in at North Watergate without checking it on the outgoing tide – not a good move! Along with  the howling F5 offshore, practically sending you back up the wave as you try to take off, there were some pretty solid sets coming through of which a few rightly steamrolled me. My new method of measuring decent surf is how many hair ties I manage to lose, and on Friday the count was 2 surfs and 2 hair ties. Enough said !  The afternoon / evening session at Fistral was absolutely no holds barred pumping although marred by the characteristically busy line up. Hopefully this pic gives a bit of an idea.

The remainder of the weekend also served up good swell and, albeit smaller than the Friday, the howling winds had dropped and been replaced with an altogether more manageable offshore. I don’t think we moved out of the Penhale carpark on Saturday.  The Sunday, my birthday was a pretty gloomy drizzly day, but with the period of the swell smaller than the previous two days it provided a more peaky swell the length and breadth of Penhale. So, waves but no sun…I guess you just can’t have it your own way all the time, can you ? 😉

The longest period that I have gone without a surf this year finally came to an end yesterday in the form of a little windy session on the pushing high tide which actually proved to be a lot more fun than it looked (I think thats just the desperation talking to be honest)  The fact still remains that you just can’t look at it for too long on the south coast in summer or you’ll talk yourself out of it !  But no complaints…. there was a few bashable ones and fun was had by all ! Thank god for the fish !

Don’t ask why but I always feel a bit ‘guilty’ about looking forward to the end of summer, it just doesn’t feel right ….but this year is different ! I will happily trade the shorter nights, colder water and worsening weather for some consistant surf.  As I write my eyes are fixed firmly on the end of week forecast. Perhaps our patience is about to be rewarded ? Early signs are showing the mother of a low pressure heading straight for us.  And I guess this is why I’m kinda happy to wave bye bye to summer this year ! Roll on Autumn !  More of these please !

At the risk of sounding like a broken down record, the ongoing south coast flat spell is showing no signs of abating making for (an already) very frustrated and impatient bunch of surfers! Like most I have completely given up on the prospect of waves on these shores so much to the amusement of friends I bought a SUP to help maintain even just a low level of paddle fitness. Last Saturday morning provided a knee high, ground swell for which these oversized logs are perfect and proving to be lots of fun (did I actually just say that..??!!) 

Thankfully, Cornwall has thrown up a fairly decent wave on a few occasions, making that horrible 4 hour trek west worthwhile. Have posted a few pics from these trips – hope you like them too and it’s not too long before we score more of this…

On return to the mainland we headed for Bingin with the idea that it’s fairly central to the stretch of waves on the Bukit peninsula. Accommodation sorted, we settled into our warung situated just at the end of Impossibles with a view south to Bingin and further to Dreamlands. 

Whilst staying here I really hoped to get the opportunity to surf Uluwatu which was high on my ‘must surf’ list. I had wanted for so long to visit this place having seen countless surf films and pictures showing perfect, never ending left handers, not to mention the temple situated on the headland. 

It certainly lived up to my expectations and looking down provides for a stunning clifftop view.  The swell was nothing to crazy, 3-4 ft and clean so a perfect starting size.  Paddling out through the cave at high tide is an experience! I can’t even begin to imagine what it must be like paddling out there when it’s cranking Getting in at high tide is apparently no easier, with currents ready to sweep you around the corner to Padang Padang if you miss the diminutive entrance. 

At low tide as the lagoon empties to expose the reef, surfers, beach goers and kids all stream down from from the cliff top to make use of the sandy entrance to the lagoon and emerging shallow pools. 

 This week was the perfect end to the trip with some fun waves everyday surfing at either Ulu’s, Bingin or Impossibles. For me this truly was the trip of a lifetime and one that I would recommend to anyone.  I’m am already eyeballing a return for next year !!

At first I thought that a full week on the small island of Nusa Lembongan would be a little too long but in hindsight I was wrong. The island lies approx.12km off the south east coast of Bali and is a mere 8km sq in size. There are hardly any cars on the island and the mode of transport of choice seemed to be the scooter or on foot.

The first thing you notice on the island is that most people work around the clock farming seaweed, which is ultimately sold onwards for use in the cosmetics industry. At low tide the seabed resembles a patchwork quilt of various types of seaweeds of various colours and descriptions. There are large tarpaulins laid out on any free open space piled up with different seaweeds drying in the sun. It doesn’t smell too good !

Nusa Lembongan is home to three main surf breaks called Playgrounds, Lacerations and Shipwrecks, although there are other lesser known ones scattered around the neighbouring islands.

The weather didn’t start too well with a few cloudy days earlier in the week but still with an accompanying small swell. Playgrounds seemed to picking up the bulk of this but with a forecasted mid week ‘blip’ on the charts nobody seemed to mind. In the meantime we had stand up paddle boards and snorkelling to keep us occupied between surfs.

When the swell did arrive Shipwrecks seemed to see the best of it with some solid barrells to be had. I on the other hand could not be dragged away from the ongoing love affair I was having with the left of the Playgrounds peak. (1st pic above)

The week went quite slowly and we all adapted to the surf-eat-surf-eat routine. After 7 days it was back to Bali for the last week of the trip… destination Bingin.

I’ve just returned from Bali to the flattest spell since, well the last very very long flat spell… But no seriously, this one, I believe is especially lengthy with high pressures ruling the skies for the last god-knows-how-long. Not even a volcano was enough to shake things up. Given the current period of wave starvation, I am sure the last thing you want to hear is someone going on about the consistent and perfect surf, in 26 degree water on the other side of the world. I can’t say I blame you… but if that’s the case then stop reading now !

This was my first trip to Indo and I was excited by the prospect of the unknown and mainly left hand surf breaks! It’s a funny old place and completely different to anything I have experienced before, from the man pouring petrol from plastic bottles into a scooter whilst smoking a cigarette to the bare footed construction workers scurrying up and down the bamboo scaffold on building sites.

My first proper surf was at Nusa Dua, a resort on the other side of the peninsula. On arrival, I jumped into the boat not really having been able to gauge the true size of the waves breaking off the back of a lagoon stretching almost 1km out to sea. I had been planning to paddle down the point but having jumped out at the main peak this seemed a very long way off. Feeling a bit tentative, decided to sit a bit wide and check out what was what. After a while of coaxing myself to get into the spot to catch one, we had the first of a few larger sets to break wide. I just remember letting out what can only be described as a whimper as it broke in front of me causing a double overhead white water explosion. It almost felt pointless to even try attempting to duck dive it but it wasn’t as bad as I had expected despite a few moments of ‘crocodile wrestling’ with my board ! I finally stroked into my first wave, to date the biggest I have ever taken off on ! After that it got easier, and I was kicking myself for being so cautious initially. Mindful of the mammoth paddle in ahead of me I called it a day soon after. Its funny how things pan out, as this ended up being largest waves I surfed the whole trip.

For our first week we based ourselves at Balangan beach, but travelled the odd day to a different beach for a change of scenery. Balangan is situated at the northern end of the Bukit Peninsula. It’s one of the easier, more manageable waves in the area but can pack a real punch in large swells and at low tide. On large low tides you can walk further south to Dreamland, Bingin, and beyond.

All in all it was a good starting point and far from the general madness of Kuta which is tourist central in Bali. We did venture in one night to check out the Aussie package holiday spot. It really is just like the Australian version of Gran Canaria or somewhere comparable. Instead of the bars blaring out Premiership football and an all-day-breakfast menu you get AFL (or ‘footie’) and pies! After a week on the mainland we were ready for our island retreat….

Yes I know, that is one groan inducing blog title but what’s an Easter update without some silly use of the word eggs in there somewhere…..
The long weekend offered up the prospect of 4 days of lie-ins, eating chocolate and possibly some rideable surf…bliss !!
Friday started with a session down the coast in a lesser known spot which offered up the some peaky 3ft shoreys with lightening winds as the day progressed. I took the opportunity to use the other halfs self shaped shortboard, which proved to be really fun and again I can’t apologise enough for riding it up the beach onto the stones….oops!
Saturday morning saw the best conditions by far, certainly if swell size is anything to go by. Most people opted for the relative shelter offered at New Beach, leaving only a handful of us to surf the beaches a bit further down. It’s been a while since I surfed over head waves here but it was a really fun session. (well I say overhead but at 5’3” I recognise my version of ‘overhead’ sized surf isn’t necessarily everyone’s!!)
The wind swung around on Sunday leaving smaller almost offshore conditions. Again much better than expected. Stayed in for way too long and in the end I thought my hands were going to snap off with the cold.
Monday had a reduced size and period wind swell that really didn’t appeal given the recent run of fairly respectable waves for these parts….but a few dedicated souls got in nonetheless.
I am off to Indo shortly and praying that the last few months of healthy eating, swimming, vastly reduced partying/ beer drinking and surfing even when its been useless is going to pay off !